A Foreign Beauty

This article, about unibrow appreciation in Tajikistan sent us on a stroll through memory lane to the August before last (2009), where we were trudging through enchanting Uzbekistan. While strolling through a morning market the charming lady below offered to enhance Rena's beauty by applying the must-have unibrow. Rena politely declined as she was not sure how she would remove it (we were traveling sans makeup remover). Throughout Central Asia the unibrow is considered tres chic. We think it's beautiful too. Next time we're offered a local beauty tip, we'll take it!

Bazaar Close-ups

Sweets and Bread Stamps.

Yodgorlik Silk Factory, Margilon

A short Marshutka ride from Fergana is this little factory in Margilon that produces silk textiles. There, we were ushered around by a 15 year old boy who adamantly described the silk making process.

After boiling the cocoons in water, the thread is unravelled, dyed and spun into spools. It is then hand-woven into fabric by a collective of 40 women.

The dyeing process.

Weaving.

Medical Care, Tashkent

In need of quick check-up and various "other" tests related to the accidental horse eating episode, we shuffled back and forth to the retro-Soviet establishment that is Polyclinic No. 1.

The level of medical practice was fairly decent, but the lab was substandard and obscene. The lab technician was surrounded by outdated glass tubes, pumps and other unrecognizable metal instruments. After unsuccessfully drawing blood from our fingers, she suggested she try from our ears. We politely declined.

Details, Khiva

Arabic inscriptions on a wooden pillar, Juma Mosque, 10th century.  
Wall tiles embedded in brick, Tosh-Hovli Palace.  
Engraved wooden column, Harem, Tosh-Hovli Palace.
Blue tile work, Harem, Tosh-Hovli Palace.

Non (bread), Khiva

Non, Uzbek bread is served with every meal. It is round and flat and baked in a tandyr oven. At Meros' we helped make the weekly stash.

The neighbor bakes our bread in her tandyr oven. Before baking, the dough is stamped with a pattern.

Meros Guesthouse, Khiva

Dodge the touristy hotels of Khiva and relax in this quiet family run guesthouse facing the inner side of the old city walls. It is filled with charm and ornamentation. Some rooms come complete with a balcony, and the dining room is fit for a king.

View of the walls and Meros.

The grandaughter.

What They Ate... Lachman

A good Lachman is always best enjoyed sitting on a tapchan with family and friends. Eat it like a spaghetti in a soup, and take large mouthfuls.

Textiles in Khiva

You can find many beautiful fabrics and textiles all around Uzbekistan. In Khiva we visited the Silk Carpet Workshop launched by UNESCO. It employs female apprentice carpet makers who hand dye silk with natural colors, and then weave on looms. It takes one apprentice 6 months to make one carpet.

The dyeing process.

Silk thread.

A shop in Khiva.

Khiva, Up Close

Khiva, The Old Town

A long 6 hour shared taxi ride through the scorching desert (and some unfriendly police stops along the way) brought us to the ancient oasis town of Khiva, where nothing has changed for hundreds of years. Magical. The Soviets were very successful in turning it into a museum-city and most of the inhabitants now live outside the old walls.

Salom Inn, Bukhara

Our pick from the many renovated B&Bs in Bukhara is the Salom Inn, just off the Lyab-i-Hauz. This former merchant's house in the heart of the old Jewish Quarter, is set around a central courtyard where you can have green tea and sweets on a hot afternoon. The rooms are clean with large and comfortable beds, and the staff is friendly and professional.


http://www.salomtravel.com/

What They Ate... Central Asian Staples

In Greek the word poluv means a variety of ingredients. Plov is the national Uzbek dish and is eaten at every occasion. This Bukharan version is a simple one consisting of rice, carrots currants and mutton. An additional piece mutton fat is the cherry on top of this festive creation.

Manty is small dumplings filled with chopped mutton and onion. This version also had some corriander seed in the mix.

Unesco Carpet Weaving Workshop, Bukhara

Beautiful silk carpets are hand woven in this former Madrassah.

Old Jewish Houses, Bukhara

We took some time to explore the Old Jewish Quarter. There, many of the houses have been recently revamped into boutique hotels. They come complete with original detailing including Jewish symbols and texts. Breakfast is often served in the inner courtyard, surrounded by decorated wooden columns.


Akbar Hotel.


The Lyabi-House.

www.lyabi-house.com





Door detail from the Akbar Hotel.

Bukharan Folk

Melon Fair, Bukhara

We happened upon a Melon Fair in full swing. Melons are the pride of Uzbek farmers and are eaten with every meal and at all times of day. Expert buyers check for fragrance, size to weight ratio and listen for the correct tapping sound.